Our five-week stay in Buenos Aires during November 2023 proved to be a tango enthusiast’s paradise. Like a cherished tradition, my husband and I immersed ourselves in the vibrant world of milongas each night, exploring various venues and returning to our favourites. The city, known as the global mecca of tango, generously hosts an impressive array of 20 to 50 milongas every night, offering a diverse selection that caters to every taste—a delightful but challenging dilemma for aficionados.
Milongas in Buenos Aires boast distinct characteristics, making each venue a unique experience. From the soul-stirring melodies of live music, showcased by various tango orchestras, to the mesmerising displays of talent through shows by exceptional dance couples, the offerings are as diverse as the city itself. Resident and guest DJs curate the musical journey, while some milongas allow enthusiasts to refine their craft with tango classes held before the dance floor comes alive. For those seeking a culinary experience, milongas often feature cafeterias or even their own restaurants.
Navigating this rich tapestry of milongas requires careful consideration and reservations, typically made via WhatsApp. Securing a table for the night ensures a personalised experience as attendees come not just for the dance but also to relish dinner, drinks, and the collective joy that permeates the Buenos Aires milonga scene. We discovered that each milonga is a unique gem, contributing to the rich mosaic of tango culture that defines Buenos Aires.
Here is a short overview of the milongas we visited:
In the bustling heart of Buenos Aires, Salon Marabu at Maipu 365 has emerged as a central hub for the city’s vibrant milonga scene. With nearly every day of the week featuring its own dance event, this venue has become a go-to place for tango enthusiasts and a magnet for those seeking the rhythm of the city centre.
The pro is undeniably its excellent location, situated right in the heart of the metropolis. Its central position makes it a convenient and accessible choice for locals and visitors, providing an ideal setting for a night of tango immersion.
However, as with any popular venue, there comes a challenge. The influx of ordinary tourists, often not partaking in the dance but attending milongas as spectators, can present a mixed experience for regular patrons. Some may be in shorts, T-shirts, and tennis shoes, talk loudly, applaud after each piece of music, and engage in incessant picture-taking and video recording on the dance floor. The impact of these behaviours largely depends on how the organisers manage and handle the tourist presence, shaping the overall atmosphere of the milonga.
As we delve into the description of milongas in Salon Marabu and elsewhere, we will explore both the allure and the potential challenges posed by this iconic venue, dissecting the intricate balance between its central location and the influx of enthusiastic but sometimes disruptive tourists.
MILONGA PARAKULTURAL
Milonga Parakultural is a vibrant tango gathering held every Tuesday and Friday at Marabu, Maipu 365, offering a central location for tango enthusiasts. Recently relocated from Salon Canning, it has become a preferred milonga for many, including myself.
Organised by Omar Viola, the Tuesday sessions feature resident DJ Horacio Gabin, while Fridays welcome guest DJs. The atmosphere is excellent, with outstanding music and skilful local and international dancers. While some ordinary tourists may observe, their presence is unobtrusive. Over the years, Milonga Parakultural has been our go-to tango destination, and it holds a special place as the venue where I guest DJ whenever I am in Buenos Aires, thanks to the trust and familiarity established with the organiser.
EL MILONGON
El Milongon is a must-attend tango event held every Sunday at Club Marabu, offering a central location for enthusiasts. Organised by the amiable Lorena Bouzas, who takes great care of visitors, the event boasts excellent music curated by DJs Lorena Bouzas and Carlos Moreira El Pituco. The dance floor is graced by skilled performers, creating a lively and positive atmosphere. El Milongon goes beyond traditional tango, incorporating a tanda of cumbia for added variety.
The event also features live orchestras and captivating shows by couples showcasing their dance prowess. With its friendly ambience and diverse offerings, El Milongon promises an enriching and entertaining experience for tango aficionados and newcomers alike.
LA DEL CENTRO MILONGA
Club Marabu comes alive every Wednesday with a captivating tango experience courtesy of the well-organised and welcoming milonga orchestrated by Carolina Couto. The event features a live orchestra each time, adding a special touch to the evening. Various DJs curate the music, ensuring a diverse and enjoyable selection for dancers and enthusiasts.
The milonga is not only known for its musical offerings but also for its warm and friendly atmosphere. The dedicated organiser, Carolina Couto, takes care of visitors with genuine hospitality and respect for dancers, creating a space where everyone feels welcome and appreciated. This midweek tango gathering at Club Marabu promises exceptional music and dancing and a sense of community, making it a standout event on Wednesdays.
MILONGA MALENA
Saturdays at Club Marabu host a tango event organised by Familia Rodriguez, an experience that, unfortunately, left a bit less-than-pleasant impression. Tables are assigned by Malena Rodriguez, the daughter, who seems to favour dancers she personally knows and ordinary tourists. As regular dancers, the atmosphere did not feel welcoming, and despite making reservations well in advance, we were relegated to a distant table on the balcony. The music, typically curated by DJ Mario Orlando, was overshadowed by constant announcements from the organiser, creating a disjointed experience.
This particular milonga at Club Marabu stood out as the only one we did not enjoy. The prioritisation of ordinary tourists over dedicated dancers was evident, with tourists occupying prime tables close to the dance floor. The night was marked by a large and disruptive tourist presence, with shouts, applause, and “dancing” in the middle of the dance floor, causing significant disturbances. The constant interruptions and distractions, coupled with the disheartening seating arrangements, led us to visit only once, stay briefly, and ultimately decide not to return. While experiences can vary, our encounter highlighted challenges that detracted from enjoying this particular milonga organised by Familia Rodriguez.
LA VIRUTA TANGO CLUB
This iconic milonga is a cornerstone of the tango scene, an enduring Buenos Aires institution that has stood the test for over two decades. Nestled in the heart of Palermo at Armenia 1366, the milonga is meticulously organised by the legendary Horacio Godoy, a name synonymous with tango excellence.
Held every Friday and Sunday, the milonga offers a dynamic experience, starting with classes before the main event. The early hours feature a mix of music genres, including tango, salsa, cumbia, and rock, creating a lively and diverse atmosphere. However, for those seeking an authentic tango experience, the magic truly unfolds after 2:30 in the morning.
At this late hour, seasoned dancers grace the floor, making it a hub for the best tango talent in Buenos Aires. Friday nights are particularly special, with live orchestras adding a captivating dimension to the experience at 23:00. The post-2:30 period transforms the milonga into a gathering of dedicated tango aficionados, ensuring an unmatched atmosphere and dance quality.
Renowned for its excellent music and vibrant ambience, this milonga has earned a reputation as one of the best in town, if not the very best. For those seeking an authentic and unparalleled tango experience, this Buenos Aires gem is a must-visit, epitomising the essence of tango culture and passion.
LA MILONGA DE LUCY
Nestled in the historic Club Gricel at La Rioja 1180, this venerable tango venue is a testament to the rich heritage of Buenos Aires tango culture. Organised by the gracious Lucy Alberto, this milonga captures the essence of tradition and authenticity.
Unlike some milongas, this venue tends to attract a local crowd, creating an intimate and authentic environment. While there may be a few tourist dancers seeking an immersive experience, the absence of ordinary tourists contributes to the genuine and local vibe of the milonga.
In the heart of Club Gricel, Lucy Alberto’s milonga is a haven for those who appreciate the roots of tango. With excellent music, a welcoming atmosphere, and a crowd predominantly composed of locals, this milonga stands out as a delightful and authentic tango experience.
Guided by the expert curation of DJ Brian Mujica, the music resonates with the very soul of tango, delivering a truly traditional experience. The ambience is delightful, characterised by a warm and friendly atmosphere that reflects the passion for tango shared by both organisers and attendees.
MILONGA DE BUENOS AIRES
Nestled within the iconic Hotel Abasto, it offers a tango haven organised by the amiable Carlos Gallego every Saturday. Easily accessible by metro, the venue provides a direct route to an evening filled with passion and rhythm.
DJs Dany Borelli and Vivi La Falce, known for curating sets that elevate the tango experience, guide the musical journey. The absence of tourists watching allows for an intimate setting, attracting a diverse crowd of locals and foreign dancers.
This milonga is not about flashy shows but a pure celebration of dance and music. The emphasis is on the joy of tango, with no distractions from performances. This is the perfect spot if you are seeking a place dedicated to dancing to excellent music.
Carlos Gallego’s meticulous organisation, coupled with the skilful tunes of the DJs, makes this milonga a standout experience. Whether you are a local enthusiast or a visitor looking for an authentic tango night, Hotel Abasto’s Saturday milonga promises a particularly good time on the dance floor.
PORTENO Y BAILARIN
Nestled in the heart of Buenos Aires at Salon El Beso on Riobamba 416, this milonga is a vibrant testament to the city’s tango legacy. Celebrating its 23rd anniversary in November 2023, the event is orchestrated with warmth and precision by the friendly organiser, Carlos Stasi.
The music, expertly curated by DJ Luis Paillallef, sets the stage for an enchanting dance night. The melodic notes resonate through the venue, creating an atmosphere that is both invigorating and nostalgic. Regularly including shows featuring talented dancers and occasional live orchestras adds excitement to the evening.
The milonga attracts a diverse crowd and boasts very good dancers, including locals and numerous foreign enthusiasts. The venue typically eschews ordinary tourists, creating a more authentic and passionate tango experience. The attendance can vary from packed to intimate, offering a dynamic atmosphere that keeps every visit unique.
Carlos Stasi’s commitment to creating a welcoming and enjoyable environment has made this milonga a beloved fixture in the tango community. Whether the dance floor is bustling or more relaxed, Salon El Beso remains a timeless destination for those seeking exceptional music, skilful dancing, and the true spirit of Buenos Aires tango.
MILONGA EN LO DE BALMACEDA
Nestled in Salon La Nacional at Adolfo Alsina 1465, the Thursday milonga, organised by Ernesto Balmaceda and Stella Baez, offers a tango experience in the heart of Buenos Aires. Though narrow and long, the dancefloor provides a suitable space for passionate dancers to showcase their skills.
Each Thursday night is adorned with captivating shows featuring talented dancers, contributing to the vibrant atmosphere of the milonga. Attendees can expect a mix of local and foreign dancers, with some tourists observing the dance floor dynamics.
While the music, skilfully curated by DJ Jose Luis Barrios, is good, it might not appear exceptional. The milonga, however, grapples with its popularity as it tends to accept numerous reservations. This sometimes leads to an uncomfortably packed venue, detracting from the overall enjoyment of the evening. It is worth noting that the milonga has been known to reach capacity, prompting some patrons to leave prematurely.
Despite occasional challenges with overcrowding, Salon La Nacional’s Thursday milonga remains a notable fixture in Buenos Aires’ tango scene. For those willing to navigate the potential crowds, the event offers an opportunity to immerse oneself in the captivating world of tango within a historical setting.
BARAJANDO
Nestled in the heart of Buenos Aires at Lo de Celia tango club on Humberto Primo 1783, the milonga held every Wednesday and Sunday is a cherished tango haven. Guided by the thoughtful organization of Jonatan Rojas, a welcoming and respectful host, the experience is elevated for locals and visitors alike. Jonatan consistently ensures prime seating, offering all patrons one of the best tables.
Unlike some milongas, Lo de Celia focuses solely on the dance floor, with no distracting shows. The music, expertly curated by DJ Dany Borelli, adds to the enchantment, creating a soundtrack that beckons dancers to the floor. The atmosphere is exceptional, complemented by a top-notch dancefloor that sets the stage for an unforgettable evening.
Drawing a mix of local and foreign dancers, Lo de Celia maintains an authentic ambience with a notable absence of ordinary tourists. This milonga has rightfully earned its place among the preferred tango destinations, offering a true taste of Buenos Aires tango culture. For those seeking an intimate and high-quality tango experience, Lo de Celia stands out as a gem in the vibrant tapestry of Buenos Aires milongas.
FIESTA MILONGUERA
Held occasionally on Mondays in the elegant setting of Salon Marabu, this special milonga is organised by the charming Oscar Hector, a sweet older gentleman who goes above and beyond to ensure a delightful experience for attendees. Although not a weekly affair, the sporadic nature adds an element of anticipation and exclusivity to the event.
Oscar Hector, the heart of this milonga, takes great care of patrons, fostering a warm and friendly atmosphere. Establishing a genuine connection, he consistently arranges the best possible tables right next to the dance floor, creating a personalized touch that goes beyond the ordinary.
Entertainment comes in the form of a captivating show by a dance couple, adding an extra layer of excitement to the evening. Skilfully curated by DJ Marcelo Salusky, the music enhances the overall experience, setting the stage for a night filled with rhythm and passion.
While the milonga may not be a regular fixture, its charm lies in the intimate and personalized touch provided by Oscar Hector. For those fortunate enough to attend, it becomes more than a dance event; it transforms into a shared experience, fostering connections and creating fond memories in the heart of Salon Marabu.
WHAT TO ADD?
Our five-week tango journey in Buenos Aires during November 2023 was, as always, too short… The city, known as the beating heart of tango, offered us a diverse array of milongas, each with its own unique charm and character. From the vibrant Club Marabu to the timeless La Viruta Tango Club, and the authentic La Milonga de Lucy to the intimate Lo de Celia, we experienced the highs and lows of Buenos Aires’ tango scene.
As we bid farewell to the dance floors that became our second home, we carry with us not just the steps and rhythms but the rich tapestry of stories, connections, and shared passion that define the soul-stirring world of Buenos Aires milongas. In the intricate dance between tradition and innovation, challenge and joy, each milonga added a brushstroke to the masterpiece of our tango sojourn, leaving an indelible mark on our hearts. Until the next embrace on a Buenos Aires dance floor, the echoes of the city’s tango will continue to resonate within us, a perpetual reminder of the enchanting paradise we were fortunate to call home, if only for a fleeting moment in November 2023.
Tango DJ Alenka